Between Constantinople and New York: the sensory paths of Ilias Ermenidis

28/12/2025
Écrit par Hervé Mathieu-Chaty
Between Constantinople and New York: the sensory paths of Ilias Ermenidis

(c)DR

Ilias Ermenidis embodies open-minded perfumery. He composes for major houses as well as confidential brands. His name appears on the credits of creations as diverse as Victoria's Secret Heavenly, Gucci by Gucci, Vera Wang Princess and Givenchy's men's fragrances. A broad palette that testifies to a no-nonsense approach.

Early inspiration

Born in Constantinople, Ilias Ermenidis moved to Athens as a child. Two cities, two cultures, two ways of looking at the world. This multiplicity shapes his outlook. At the age of eighteen, he left Greece for France. He headed for Versailles and the ISIPCA perfumery school. The economy would wait. Perfumery couldn't.

Summers spent in the family business had planted a seed. In this Istanbul factory, he discovered raw materials. Not yet the composition, but already a fascination for what transforms the invisible into the tangible. He would play with formulas during chemistry or cosmetics classes. A sure sign.

In 1981, he completed an internship at Firmenich in Geneva. It was the turning point. The following year, he joined Créations Aromatiques for further training. Then, in 1986, Firmenich hired him. He became the first perfumer trainee with an ISIP diploma to be recruited by the company. A source of great pride for him. This distinction opened the doors to a career that took him from Paris to New York, where he stayed for twenty-five years before returning to Paris in 2019.

His olfactory style

How do you define the style of a designer who composes for both the mass market and niche perfumeries? Ermenidis refuses to be pigeonholed. He speaks of generosity, joy and perpetual research. His style: joyful and generous, always in search of that je-ne-sais-quoi that will give a fragrance its signature and make it addictive.

His favorite materials reveal his preferences. He regularly uses mimosa, davana and immortelle absolute. As for molecules, he cites Hedione and Ambrox as radiant textures that are constantly being perfected. Ambrox, in particular. In an interview, he describes it as the most sensual molecule ever. This fascination with amber materials runs through many of his creations.

His method? No single formula. A creation can take three seconds or three years. Sometimes, it's like writing a novel. Other times, it's a dazzling intuition. What's his favorite part? Those mornings when you feel an urgency in your stomach, when you have to run to the laboratory to test this or that idea. The sheer excitement of creation.

His friends call him the philosophical perfumer. A fitting label for him. Passionate about contemporary art, design, architecture, history and opera, he draws inspiration from everywhere. He claims that a boring dinner can even become a source of inspiration. Everything is a source of inspiration.

Notable achievements

Ilias Ermenidis's career has many milestones. In 1990, Byblos marked his first success. A playful, atypical fragrance for its time. Then came Victoria's Secret Heavenly in 2000, which won a FiFi Award and became an American bestseller. A consecration.

For Gucci, he designed the eponymous fragrance Gucci by Gucci. A prestigious project that established his reputation. For Givenchy, he multiplied his collaborations with Alberto Morillas: Pour Homme, Blue Label, Greenenergy, Oblique FF. Men's fragrances that define an era.

His portfolio also extends to houses such as Calvin Klein, Michael Kors and Ferragamo, as well as more confidential brands like Goldfield & Banks, for whom he composed Purple Suede, and ELISIRE, for whom he created Elixir Absolu in 2015. This creation unfurls a lush floral bouquet where mimosa, Tahitian tiare and ylang-ylang mingle with bergamot and mandarin. The voluptuous trail of amber, vanilla and addictive patchouli transforms this floral chypre into a veritable elixir of seduction.

More recently, he has worked on the Parfums de Marly collection and for Amouroud. He also participated in the creation of Chanel 1957, an exploration of white musk. Each project allows him to explore a different territory.

His vision of perfume

For Ilias Ermenidis, creating a perfume is a magical and promising moment, but one that requires teamwork to bring it to life. He never takes sole credit. The perfumer dialogues with art directors, marketing teams and evaluators. Creation is collective.

He sometimes compares his work to that of a chef or an architect. Composing a perfume means assembling materials, creating a structure, seeking harmony. Perfume has its own language, less universal than music, but capable of transporting, moving and becoming addictive.

He has no problem collaborating with other perfumers. Sometimes, however, a fresh look is needed, especially when development takes a long time. Collaboration means trust and respect. With Alberto Morillas, for example, he regularly works on American and European projects.

Personal portrait: the perfumer behind the bottles

Ermenidis attributes his positive character to his Mediterranean origins. He spends every summer in Greece with his family and friends. These returns to his roots are essential to him. His life revolves around two pillars: his passion for his profession and his family. He puts his children's health and happiness above all else.

At Firmenich, he describes himself as an artist in residence. A phrase that sums up his relationship with the company. It's where he lives his passion. Stressful, time-consuming projects don't scare him. The trust of his colleagues and customers is his fuel to keep his spirits up. And when a new bottle arrives in his hands, he immediately sends a photo to his family.

Polyglot and cosmopolitan, Ilias Ermenidis embodies a perfumery without borders. Ten years between Paris and Geneva, twenty-five years in New York, then back to Paris. This mobility feeds his creativity. Each city brings its own perspective. New York exposed him to a particular energy, an American dynamism. Paris remains the historic heart of perfumery.

He loves discussions, discoveries and encounters. His intellectual approach to perfume doesn't prevent him from being warm and outgoing. He loves the idea that there are millions of things to learn. This boundless curiosity keeps him open-minded.

He also embodies a certain humility. Despite his impressive portfolio, he remains accessible, open and curious. He doesn't try to impose a single style, but responds to each brief with precision. This ability to adapt, coupled with his constant high standards, makes him a complete perfumer.

His multicultural approach enriches his work. Constantinople, Athens, Paris, New York: each city has left its mark. This diversity is reflected in his compositions, capable of speaking to different audiences without ever denying themselves.

Perfumes by Ilias Ermenidis on SCENTISSIME

Explore these fragrances and many more in our online boutique, and don't hesitate to take our Olfactory Diagnosis to discover the fragrance that will perfectly match your desires. Follow us on Instagram for more real-time news. To enjoy the exclusive benefits of our loyalty and referral program, simply click here: The List.

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